Originally published: 2 July 2022 • Refreshed: August 2026
This article is part of my Jordan – An Open-Air Museum series, where I share the places that made my journey through Jordan so memorable. You can also explore my other posts on Petra, Wadi Rum, the Dead Sea and more from this unforgettable trip.
One of the things I enjoy most about travelling on my own is the freedom to explore at my own pace. If something catches my interest, I simply stop and spend a little longer there. There is no timetable and nobody waiting for me to move on.
That was exactly how I approached my visit to the Amman Citadel, and it turned out to be one of my favourite days in Jordan.
Perched on one of Amman’s highest hills, the Citadel is one of the city’s most important archaeological sites. I had read that it was easy to explore without a guide, so I took a taxi there on my own with my camera, a bottle of water and plenty of curiosity.
What I hadn’t appreciated was just how much there was to see. I ended up spending more than three hours wandering around this remarkable ancient site, and I could easily have stayed even longer.
A City with a View
Before I started looking at the ancient ruins, I found myself admiring the view.
From the top of the Citadel, Amman stretches across a series of hills, with rows of cream-coloured buildings covering almost every hillside. It gave me a completely different perspective of the city and helped me appreciate just how large it is.
Standing there, it wasn’t difficult to understand why people chose this hilltop as a place to settle thousands of years ago.
Exploring the Ancient City
The Citadel has been home to many different civilisations over the centuries, and as I wandered around I found evidence of Roman, Byzantine and Islamic history all in one place.
The Temple of Hercules is undoubtedly the most famous landmark. Even though only a few columns remain standing, it is still an impressive sight and one of the most photographed places in Amman.
I also spent some time in the Jordan Archaeological Museum, which is included with your entrance ticket. Although it isn’t a large museum, I found it fascinating because it contains artefacts covering thousands of years of Jordan’s history.
One display particularly caught my attention. It contained everyday glass objects such as cups, jugs and bowls dating back to the first century. I had never really stopped to think about when glass became part of everyday life, so discovering that people were making and using glass nearly two thousand years ago genuinely surprised me.
It was another reminder that ancient civilisations were often far more advanced than we give them credit for.
An Unexpected Encounter
Just as I was finishing my visit, a local photographer approached me and offered to take some photographs.
After a little friendly bargaining, we agreed on a price of two Jordanian dinars.
Within minutes he had transformed my ordinary scarf into a beautifully arranged traditional-style head covering. It was obvious he had done this many times before.
He knew exactly where the best viewpoints were. He knew exactly how I should stand. He even suggested different poses, assuring me that I could look just as good as the younger people taking photographs for Instagram! I couldn’t help laughing.
His enthusiasm was infectious, and before long he had taken dozens of photographs using nothing more than my own iPhone. I have to admit, he did a wonderful job.
Some of my favourite photographs from Jordan came from that unexpected encounter.
Why This Became One of My Favourite Days
Looking back, I realised that what made the Amman Citadel so memorable wasn’t just the archaeology. It was the whole experience.
I enjoyed exploring at my own pace, learning about the different civilisations that had once lived there and discovering little things that genuinely surprised me, like the ancient glass collection.
But what I remember most is the photographer. What started as a simple offer to take my picture became one of the happiest and funniest moments of my trip.
It’s those unexpected encounters with local people that often stay with me long after I’ve returned home.
The Amman Citadel gave me history, beautiful views and a wonderful reminder that travel is as much about people as it is about places.
Amman Citadel at a Glance
Location: In the heart of Amman on Jabal Al-Qal’a, overlooking the city.
Best known for: The Temple of Hercules, panoramic views and the Jordan Archaeological Museum.
Highlights: Ancient ruins, fascinating artefacts, spectacular views across Amman and the chance to explore at your own pace.
My favourite moment: Meeting the local photographer who transformed an ordinary scarf into one of my favourite memories of Jordan.
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