Originally published: 2 July 2022 • Refreshed: August 2026
This article is part of my Jordan – An Open-Air Museum series, where I share the places that made my journey through Jordan so memorable. You can also explore my other posts on Petra, Wadi Rum, the Dead Sea and more from this unforgettable trip.
After spending several fascinating hours exploring the Amman Citadel, I decided to walk to the Roman Theatre instead of taking a taxi.
Looking down from the Citadel, it didn’t seem very far away.
I soon discovered that appearances can be deceptive!
The route took me down what felt like endless flights of stone steps, through the back streets of downtown Amman and into a part of the city that most tour buses simply drive past. I thoroughly enjoyed it because it gave me the chance to see everyday life rather than just the tourist attractions.
People were chatting outside their shops, children were playing in the narrow streets and life carried on around me as if I wasn’t there. It reminded me why I enjoy walking whenever I can. You notice so much more than you ever do from the window of a vehicle.
Finally... I Found It!
After quite a walk, I finally caught sight of the Roman Theatre.
I have to admit I breathed a huge sigh of relief!
Not because I was exhausted, but because I realised I hadn’t taken a wrong turn after all.
Built during the second century AD, the theatre could seat around 6,000 people and is one of Amman’s best-known landmarks. It has been beautifully restored and, unlike many ancient theatres, it is still used today for concerts, festivals and cultural events.
I always enjoy seeing historic places that continue to be part of everyday life rather than simply becoming museum pieces.
The Perfect Place to People-Watch
I spent some time sitting in the theatre simply watching the world go by.
Families wandered around taking photographs.
Friends sat chatting together on the stone steps.
Visitors climbed to the top for the best views across the city.
It felt less like an ancient ruin and more like a place where people still come together, just as they have done for centuries.
People-watching has always been one of my favourite travel pastimes, and this was the perfect place to do it.
Crossing the Road!
Then came the part of the day I remember most. To continue my walk, I needed to cross a very busy four-lane road. There were no traffic lights. And there were no pedestrian crossings- just a constant stream of fast-moving cars.
I stood there for a few moments wondering how on earth I was going to get across. Then I spotted two elderly local women. Without hesitation, they stepped confidently into the traffic and calmly made their way across the road.
I thought to myself, “They clearly know what they’re doing.” So, I quietly followed them, step by step, lane by lane until we reached the other side safely. I breathed a huge sigh of relief and I smiled to myself. Sometimes it helps to watch what local people do.
Final Thoughts
Looking back, I remember the Roman Theatre for two reasons.
The first was its impressive history. It has stood in the heart of Amman for almost two thousand years and continues to bring people together, just as it did when the city was known as Philadelphia.
The second was the walk.
Exploring the back streets, watching everyday life unfold around me and successfully crossing that busy road became just as memorable as the theatre itself.
It’s funny how travel works sometimes.
You set out to see a famous landmark…
…and end up remembering the journey to get there.
Oh, how I do love my experiences!
Roman Theatre at a Glance
Location: Downtown Amman, at the foot of the Citadel.
Best known for: A beautifully restored second-century Roman theatre that once seated around 6,000 people.
Highlights: The impressive theatre itself, its lively atmosphere and the opportunity to combine it with a visit to the Amman Citadel.
My favourite moment: Following two elderly local ladies across one of the busiest roads in Amman and realising that sometimes local knowledge is better than any map!
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