Refreshed: August 2026
I had the most thrilling and unforgettable time exploring Northern India. It is one of those places I would return to in a heartbeat.
India is famous for its vibrant culture, incredible food and deep spirituality, but the first thing that struck me was just how overwhelming it could be. The sights, sounds, smells, traffic and sheer number of people were unlike anywhere else I had experienced. I arrived with an open mind, ready for an adventure, and India certainly gave me one.
Planning My Journey
I didn’t tackle this journey completely alone. I joined a small group tour of twelve people on a fast-paced itinerary through Delhi, Rajasthan and Agra, starting and ending in Delhi.
Before leaving the UK, I did my research, packed my essentials and made sure I had medication with me in case the famous “Delhi Belly” made an appearance. Our tour company took care of the main logistics and provided an excellent English-speaking guide who stayed with us throughout the 12-day journey.
Even my flight from London via Doha provided a little excitement. I had a tight 1-hour and 20-minute connection and found myself hurrying through the enormous terminal to catch my onward flight.
First Impressions: Holy Cows and a Midnight Police Escort
The moment I stepped out of Delhi Airport, the contrasts began. Instead of rows and rows of cars, I was amazed by the thousands of motorcycles parked outside.
After dropping my bags at the hotel, I ventured straight out with an English couple from my group. Almost immediately, we encountered the famous holy cows wandering freely among the traffic. There were also market stalls selling large discs of dried cow dung, which I later discovered were used as fuel.
Just around the corner from our hotel, the main street was buzzing with traditional Indian weddings. There seemed to be weddings everywhere! Music was blaring, people were dancing and the colourful outfits were magnificent. Meanwhile, vehicles, cows and pedestrians were all competing for space. I was genuinely worried that somebody was going to run over my feet.
We became so absorbed in watching the wedding celebrations that we completely lost track of time. Near midnight, a police vehicle pulled up beside us. A policewoman told us that the crowded area wasn’t particularly safe for tourists at that time of night and kindly offered us a lift back to our hotel.
We gladly accepted, but we weren’t expecting them to turn on the police sirens! We arrived at the hotel gates in a flashing police vehicle looking like a strange mixture of celebrities and criminals. It was hilarious and a wonderful end to my first evening in Delhi.
Becoming a "Celebrity" on a Delhi City Tour
The following day, I decided to do something different from the rest of my group. While they followed the planned temple itinerary, I booked a full-day guided coach tour independently through the Indian Tourist Office for just 299 rupees.
What I hadn’t realised was that the tour was mainly for Indian holidaymakers. Out of about 40 passengers, I was the only international tourist. The guide tried his best to translate some of his commentary into English for me whenever he remembered, but I soon became part of the entertainment myself.
Families visiting Delhi from other parts of India wanted to talk to me, practise their English, touch my hands and take photographs with me. I couldn’t believe how many photographs I posed for that day.
At lunchtime, I followed everyone else’s example and ordered a vegetarian thali — a huge platter containing different curries, rice and roti. It cost just 150 rupees. Before I could pay, one of the families I had met on the bus insisted on buying my lunch for me. I was incredibly touched by their generosity.
During the day we visited some of Delhi’s best-known landmarks, including Qutub Minar, the Lotus Temple, Mahatma Gandhi’s memorial at Rajghat and the enormous red sandstone walls of the Red Fort. The monuments were impressive, but it was the people I met that day who made the experience particularly memorable.
Lost in Delhi and a Hair-Raising Scooter Ride
By the time we finished at the Red Fort, darkness had fallen and the area was packed with thousands of people. I couldn’t get a signal to book an Uber, so I decided to brave the Delhi Metro. I soon became completely lost trying to work out the different lines and transfers.
Two local women spotted my confusion and came to my rescue. They helped me navigate the trains and then joined me for a heavily negotiated rickshaw ride. During the journey, they asked whether I liked tea. Of course I said yes, and before I quite knew what was happening, I was sitting in their family home drinking homemade chai flavoured with cardamom, ginger and black pepper.
Then the neighbours started arriving, followed by friends, cousins and other members of the family who wanted to meet their unexpected visitor. Once again, I had somehow become a minor celebrity! They gave me a home-cooked meal while we sat talking, laughing and sharing stories. One of the daughters, Sam, even gave me one of her original paintings, which was such a lovely gesture.
By midnight, however, I really did need to return to my hotel. The mother quickly changed out of her comfortable clothes and announced that the fastest way to get me through Delhi at that hour was on the back of her scooter — without a helmet! I looked at the scooter and thought, Go for it, girl! You only live once!
As we approached a huge junction, I noticed that the traffic light ahead was red, but she wasn’t slowing down. I gasped as she shouted over her shoulder, “Oh no, Molly, you go on red light, no stop! It is safest because once the lights change, the trucks converge!” I closed my eyes and prayed while she manoeuvred the scooter like an absolute pro. It was exhilarating, terrifying and completely unforgettable.
Journeying Through Rajasthan
From Delhi, our group travelled by road into Rajasthan. In Mandawa, we wandered through narrow streets looking at the old havelis — traditional mansions decorated with elaborate frescoes. I also came face-to-face with a very large and stubborn bull who clearly believed the pavement belonged to him.
In Bikaner, we travelled by rickshaw through the old town bazaars and explored Junagarh Fort, with its beautifully decorated interiors and mirrored ceilings. Then we headed into the Thar Desert towards the golden city of Jaisalmer.
Jaisalmer Fort was extraordinary. Built from local yellow sandstone, it rises above the city and seems almost to merge with the desert landscape.
Next came Jodhpur, the famous “Blue City”, where many of the houses are painted in different shades of blue. After climbing what felt like hundreds of stairs at Mehrangarh Fort, our guide gave us a masterclass in how to tie a traditional Rajasthani turban. After all that climbing, I thought we had earned it!
Our final Rajasthan stop was Jaipur, the “Pink City”. We stopped to admire the extraordinary Hawa Mahal, or Palace of Winds, with its hundreds of small windows, before travelling up the hill towards Amber Palace in a convoy of vintage jeeps.
One of the places that fascinated me most was Jantar Mantar, the historic astronomical observatory. Its enormous stone instruments were designed to measure time and track astronomical movements long before modern technology existed. Watching the shadow move across the giant sundial was quite something and made me appreciate just how sophisticated scientific knowledge was hundreds of years ago.
From Jaipur to Agra
From Jaipur, our journey continued to Agra and one of the places I had been waiting to see — the Taj Mahal. Seeing it for the first time deserves a story of its own, so I won’t try to squeeze that experience into a few paragraphs here.
Read more:
Street Food Triumphs and "Delhi Belly"
Food was a huge part of my experience in India. While some of my fellow travellers were understandably cautious, I was much more adventurous. The food I ate in India tasted very different from the Indian curries I knew back home, and I was amazed by the sheer variety of vegetarian dishes. In fact, I enjoyed them so much that I became almost completely vegetarian for the duration of the trip.
On my final evening, I met my Delhi friends again and we went on a street-food feast, finishing with a midnight scooter ride to one of their favourite places for chocolate waffles. I also tried the local Indian rum, Old Monk, mixed with warm water. Our guide seemed convinced it was capable of curing almost anything!
And now for the obvious question: did I get Delhi Belly? Yes, I did!
I had been extremely careful. I drank only factory-sealed bottled water, avoided ice and chose street food that was freshly cooked and served piping hot. To this day, I suspect the culprit may have been the hotel tap water I used to brush my teeth. Fortunately, I had come prepared. I took the medication I had brought with me, recovered quickly and carried on enjoying my trip.
My Lasting Impression of India
India is fast-paced, energetic, loud and bursting with colour. At times it completely overwhelmed me, but that was also part of what made the journey so memorable.
What has stayed with me most is the people I met along the way: the family who bought my lunch, the two women who rescued me when I was lost on the Delhi Metro, the neighbours who welcomed me into their home, and the mother who somehow persuaded me onto the back of her scooter at midnight!
I went to India expecting magnificent forts, palaces, temples and incredible food, and I certainly found all of those. What I hadn’t expected were so many spontaneous encounters with complete strangers.
Would I return to India? In a heartbeat.
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In pictures .....My journey through Northern India
Absolutely riveting write up. You took me on the trip with your fantastic story telling.
I will visit in the very near future.
Thank you very much for your feedback. I am glad to hear that you enjoyed reading my write up and that you are inspired to visit India soon.
India looks wonderful, vibrant & so colourful. The write up & photographs of your adventures very interesting. Jaipur is a place I would love to visit. How you escaped ‘Deli Belly’ made me smile.
Delhi belly – Hahaha!!Strong constitution I think!! Jaipur was very lovely and you will enjoy it. Thanks for your feedback. x
Hi Molly
Glad to see you continue to enjoy life to the full.
I thoroughly enjoyed your blog as I visited these places in 1995, and so my memories came flooding back. India really is the most unique place on earth.
You look as happy and vibrant as ever xx
Thank you Mick. I am glad you enjoyed reading my post on my amazing India adventures. Let’s catch up soon. xx
Wow wow wow!!
This is a great adventure, couldn’t stop reading, what a full length writing. The photos are great and thanks for answering the burning question, might be the water used for brushing as you were very careful. Thank you.
Thank you Bisi. I am glad you enjoyed my – yes long story – lol – about my adventures in India. I had so much to write about and could have gone on! Perhaps I should write the rest that I held back on!!
What a beautiful read, I love how the photos share a story on their own.
I’m inspired to work harder so I can retire, travelling the world like you Ma’m
Seyi -thank you for the feedback. I appreciate it. I am sure you will get to fulfil your dreams when the time comes.
Captivating, excellent description of magnificent India.
India is now on my bucket list of MUST Do hahaha. Very very interesting write up
and a very good write ups of the various interesting places you visited. Thank you
Thank you very much Funmi. I am glad you enjoyed reading my write up and you are inspired to visit India. I recommend it so go for it girl!
This is an incredibly well curated, mind-blowing experience. Your narratives bring the experiences to life. You should write a book about this story. Thanks for sharing.
Lol.Sidik Thanks very much for your comment. About the book, watch this space!Lol.